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Glossary of Terms. Above it, a steering tube connects the fork, handlebars and bicycle through a stem that enables riders to steer ahead with ease. The head tube has a headset on it and is made of bearings connecting the bicycle frame and the steerer tube. Fork ends to attach the wheel to it and are located at the lower end of the fork. It uses the axle or a swift to release skewer going via a hollow axle to ensure it remains clamped.
The lower part is composed of aluminum, which is lightweight but offers high strength to breakage when compared to steel with three times the density it has. It has an added advantage over other forks with its ability to get serviced hence used for longer periods. The upper part is steel made offering high strength and toughness to the bicycle attachment. Suntour only provide exploded diagrams and some basic info on their forks..
Its a bitch and its often fairly inconclusive but it has pictures. If your fork has mearly seized up, this is essentially the method I used to pull 'back in the day' of my old Suntour XCPs.
From memory, the XCM sat a little below that so Im assuming there is no hydraulic damping of any sort. At most, I would expect the lockout but thats its own sealed cartridge.
Its probably best to remove the fork from your bike to start with. The shafts are pressed into the lowers and need to be unseated by this method. Remove bolts completly and carefully slide off the lowers. Now, its at this point things get a little interesting. Yours may be different but if the fork has just momentarily 'seized' due to induced water or whatever, a clean and a regrease should be enough.
Start by cleaning the insides of the lowers. The first time I pulled my fork apart, I had alot of brown 'water' in there Its just a reflection of the budget nature of the fork.
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